The camp collar shirt's story begins in 16th century Mexico with the guayabera—a lightweight worker's shirt designed for hot climates. When the style reached Cuba a century later, it evolved: the mandarin collar opened up, creating the notched, flat-lying collar that defines the style today.
The design went global after 1959, when Cuban migration brought it to Miami and New York. From there, it spread internationally. Italian designers adopted it for resort collections. Japanese brands reimagined it in unexpected fabrics. British tailors created versions in linen for colonial climates. Each culture brought its own interpretation to the basic template: an open collar that lies flat, suggesting ease without sacrificing structure.
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Cinema gave the camp collar global recognition. Whether in Miami noir, French New Wave summers, or Hong Kong action films, the shirt carried the same message: someone comfortable in their skin, dressed for heat and movement. It worked across cultures because its relaxed formality translated universally—neither trying too hard nor giving up entirely.
The 1990s brought unexpected interpreters. Wacko Maria printed them with religious iconography. Neighborhood rendered them in heavy cotton twills. WTAPS made technical versions. What had been decidedly middle-American became part of streetwear's global vocabulary.
Recent years have seen luxury brands claim the camp collar. Prada's geometric prints on silk, Saint Laurent's leopard patterns, Dries Van Noten's florals—each house bringing their perspective to the silhouette. The long-sleeved camp collar, while less common than its short-sleeved counterpart, has always existed as an alternative—one that extends the shirt's wearability beyond summer months. This full-sleeve option makes particular sense: it maintains the collar's relaxed character while adding versatility, creating a shirt that works layered under jackets or worn alone, dressed up or down depending on context.
For our interpretation at Mohur Studio, we've committed to the long-sleeve camp collar across our range. Using block-printed cottons and handspun linens, we're bringing colour and pattern to what's often a neutral category. The block printing—a traditional Indian technique using carved wooden blocks—creates prints with subtle irregularities that distinguish handmade from digital. Available in contemporary florals, graphic stripes, and textured plains, these shirts aim to fill a gap: colorful, crafted pieces for men who want something beyond the basics but aren't looking for logos or obvious branding. Just good shirts that happen to be more interesting than most.